About Patra:
The third-largest city in Greece and far and away the largest in the Peloponnese, Patra’s unappealing urban sprawl now extends for miles north and south of the city center. You’ll see work going on in the city to smarten it for its role as the European City of Culture in 2006. For now, although Patra does have sights worth seeing—the Cathedral of St. Andrew, the Archaeological Museum, a Roman Odeon (music hall) on the slopes of the ancient Acropolis, and a medieval castle on the summit—there’s nothing here worth lingering over unless you have to mark time waiting for the ferry to Italy. In July and August, however, the Patra International Festival of the Arts (& 2610276540 or 2610279008) brings performances of everything from ancient drama to popular music to the Roman Odeon and the Patra Municipal Theater. Or you may prefer to concentrate on the Wine Festival, featuring tastings at the Achaia Clauss winery check with the tourist office for schedule information. Patra also has a vigorous carnival that lasts nearly a month, with parades, costumes, and floats, ending the Monday before Lent.
What to see & do in Patra:
If you find yourself with a few hours in Patra, we suggest you head inland on Gerokostopoulou to Plateia Giorgiou (George Square). Sit at a cafe and take in the facades of the handsome neoclassical theater and banks on the square. Patras was burnt by the Turks during the War of Independence, and has been hit repeatedly by earthquakes. These buildings are among the few that remain from the 19th century, when the city was famous for its arcaded streets and neoclassical architecture. Patra still boasts attractive squares: in addition to Plateia Giorgiou, there’s Plateia Olga and Plateia 25 Martiou, all with cafes, restaurants, and shops. Then, head down to the waterfront to the Cathedral of St. Andrew. Although the present rather hideous church was only built after World War II, the mosaics give a vivid picture of old Patra. Be sure to dress appropriately to visit the cathedral, a major pilgrimage shrine thanks to the presence of St. Andrew’s skull in an ornate gold reliquary to the right of the altar. There are several pleasant cafes in the shaded park across from the cathedral.
If you have an attack of conscience, head for the Archaeological Museum, 42 Mezonos (& 2610220829), open Tuesday through Sunday from 8: 30am to 5pm free admission. If you’re here on the weekend and feel energetic, take in the Patra Fortress, a medieval castle on the ancient acropolis that’s open Saturday and Sunday from about 8am to 7pm free admission. If you drive up, be pleasantly surprised if you don’t get lost. If you’re taking the Rio-AntiRio ferry from the Peloponnese across to Central Greece, you can take in another fortress, the 15th-century Fortress of Rio, while you wait for your boat. The fortress is open daily from 8am to 7pm; admission is free.